I had one thing in mind yesterday--get the hell out of Dodge. I was hesitant, though. I have forgotten how to leave town. I have lived the year within ten miles of my house. Ten miles on the outside. Mostly within six. It was all stop and go. Just deciding what costume to wear was a hassle, and that only meant shoes. After leaving the house and going back three times, I finally pointed my mother's car in the direction of the interstate. Oops. I needed gas. There are no gas stations around town anymore but the megastores with a dozen or more pumps. I made a turn to go to one, then regretted it as there was no way to get out of the lot going in the direction I intended, so I had to backtrack nearly to my own neighborhood. Half an hour here, half an hour there, I finally was on the interstate.
Oh, my, though. . . bluetooth is fun. This was my first roadtrip in which I could play music from my phone. No depending on fading signals, no futzing about. Boy oh boy--I was living in the 21st century.
It made a difference.
Past the factory town, over the great river. . . much was changing, forests cleared, new housing and apartments and shopping centers spreading like a great plague, then, further up the road, the jungle forests again as I passed through the counties.
The temperature was warm for this time of year, pleasant but troubling if you allow yourself to think about it. The sky was blue, the temp near 80, the sharp semi-tropical winter light slashing down like a razor. This year, I was determined to use its drama and its loveliness.
I pulled into a parking lot a few blocks from the center of town. Just then, my phone rang. It was T. He told me he had just gotten the pics from JP. He wasn't keen on them.
"My wife said she liked yours better. I think we are going to send those in with some of his."
I haven't seen JP's pics yet, so I don't know, but that was nice validation before I grabbed my Leica and headed off for a day of photo fun. Really. Just fun and a little nervousness, too, for street photography in a small town. . . well. . . you stand out in the "crowd."
There was no "crowd." The sidewalks were mostly empty. But the town, in part, is a scenic dream on side streets and certain alleyways. I limped. I snapped. I breathed in the air. For a few blocks, it was a movie set waiting for actors. It is, in part, a college town, a prestigious small private college just larger than Country Club College a few blocks from the city center. I hadn't thought about it, but students are not back in school yet, so there was none of that, and it seemed Tuesday afternoons were sleepy.
I had memories of places. I was invited to participate with a famous photographer in her workshops years ago. I would drive up to her place with the big effing studio her husband, once the town's mayor, had built for her. He dealt in antiques and would go to old hotels and houses that were being torn down and take out all the valuables to sell in his shop--old glass door knobs turned purple, pine flooring, old double sash windows, mantles, wrought iron. . . etc. I'd been there many times over the years buying things for my old bungalow. Ili loved the town, too, and we used to go up together just for fun. She loved the record store there and the homemade candy and ice cream shop. We would eat at a Cuban restaurant and drink a pitcher of sangria. Her father was an attorney who used to come to the courthouse here and bring her when she was a kid. We went to the wedding of my secretary here, I remembered as I walked past the place where she asked me to take her photo in her new "going to a wedding" dress.
Wives and lovers. . . .
I walked from one end of town to the other, down the main street and around corners down side streets, then back. I wanted to walk a particular "artisans alley" again thinking I might get something to eat. But. . . Dry January is not conducive to travel. I would want a glass of wine or a beer with lunch but I couldn't or wouldn't, and it would, truly, kill the joy. Dr. Oz and RFK jr. had just come out with a statement that no alcohol was good for you, but I think while alcohol may not be good for you, no alcohol is bad for you. There is more to health, I think, than prescriptive existence--and I say "existence" rather than "living." A glass or two of wine with lunch on a travel day to a pretty town. . . that is "living."
As I cut back through the alley, I saw women--all women at all tables--sitting under umbrellas eating lunch with big glasses of wine, and I thought, "How lovely." Then I came to a table full of younger, tatted women chatting up the younger, tatted waitress. I passed them by, then thought again. Fuck it, boy. . . get some cajones.
I went back. I stood, probably awkwardly, an old man with baggy Chinese shorts and a t-shirt, with long bleach blond hair, a stubley beard and a growing belly--AND A FUCKING CAMERA--with a wavering, broken voice and uncertainty, and said, "Uh. . . I like the tattoo around you ear. Never saw that before. Can I take a picture."
Really, that is it, verbatim. I don't know. What else do you say?
One of the women at the table said, "The ones on her arm are great, too."
"Yea. . . the one around her ear is really unique," I quavered.
"Sure," said the tatted waitress.
Of course, nervous, I fumbled with the camera, blind, unable to focus the fucking rangefinder, thinking for sure I was fucking it up. My hands were shaking.
WTF? I've become a true feeb.
But the thing was done. I had done "the thing."
That was good, I thought. I could do more. I will. I will do more. Just. . . quit being such a feeb.
Back at the car, I decided to drive out of town to see what I could see. Down the main street, past the good art museum, a really good one, past the empty college, then through the usual small town litter of restaurants and shopping centers and discount stores, car dealers new and used, truck and trailer lots, etc.
There was the old Motel I'd photographed so many times, the great old sign for what was once a 1950s Holiday Inn, I think, on a state highway before the interstates were built, converted. I have a great photo of the sign before it was damaged by a hurricane. I'd stopped when it was damaged and talked to the new owner who was renovating the old motel, he said. Now, the sign, still damaged, said, "New Owner." It was a flophouse for drug addicts and criminals, $35 a day.
That was that.
Onward, out of town, to the junction of Hghwy 17 and State Road 11. I took 11. Oh, my, I was driving through country, some untouched, but much of it rich horse ranches breeding jumpers and show horses, big drives leading to huge mansions surrounded by pastures, some sitting on big, untouched lakes. It looked lonely, spooky, even, but I realized that I was only miles out of town on a highway nobody travelled. I didn't see another car for miles and miles and miles. I passed things I should have stopped and photographed, but per usual with the unknowing and unwilling, I told myself I would stop and get the photo on the way back. Onward. And onward. My batteries were recharging. There were the big cranes that live nowhere around my town, five feet tall, flocks of them. What had I forgotten this year? What had I not experienced? What lost?
And then, driving back, I saw none of the things I said I would stop and photograph. Of course.
When I got back to my house, I downloaded the photos, just to get that done. I would have no time to look through them much before I had to go back to my mother's. But I wanted to see the ear tattoo.
Disappointing. It is not a good photo. But it was a testament to a bit of chutzpah. I'd asked. I'd not been rejected. I could, perhaps, do it again, even in the era of suspicion.
There are a hundred or so other photos to look at. I'm sure they won't be all that. But. . . I did make some pics that T and his wife liked better than the ones from the catalog photographer, so at least there's that.
If you are taking those backroads through the sunny winter south. . . a little traveling music.






























