Yesterday was warm and windy. I sat out in the early afternoon to take in the sun and weather with my mother on the second floor balcony of her rehab hotel. I don't know the root cause just then, but things were feeling pretty old Key West, and I was thinking seafood and adventure.
"I could go for some oysters," I said. "It's the season for them, isn't it?"
I don't really eat oysters anymore because of the dirty bay waters full of sewage and chemical runoff, but especially because of the chance of getting hepatitis. Still, life (mine) is short but memory is long.
"Remember Lee and Rick's?" I asked her. It was a place not far from where I grew up, and I remember going there with my parents when I was young, so, so many decades ago.
"Yes. I wonder if it is still there?"
"I think so."
I got out my phone. Yup. Sure as shitting. I think the last time I was there was in the 1980s.
"I think I'm going to go get some oysters," I told her .
"Take me with you."
The sky began to take on a dark cast as the edge of the approaching front moved in. It wasn't feeling so Key West anymore.
"I wish my friends still lived here. I used to be able to call people on the fly and say, Hey. . . let's go get some oysters, but not any longer.
When I said goodbye to my mother, I was wondering if I really wanted to go. It was easier to simply go home and. . . .
Nope. Determined to break out, I mapped my way to adventure and daring.
I grew up in a bad part of town, but we were able to look down upon the people in the neighborhood bordering the oyster bar. Lee and Rick's is just off Old Winter Garden Road, then a two lane sometimes dirt thoroughfare of diesel mechanics and transmission repair shops. It had changed. Now it was four lanes, but that was all. Old block buildings that hadn't been painted since I was a kid, dirt spattered, oil covered, surrounded by sandy, bare ground lined the new highway.
I missed the turn. I'd gone too far and had to run back through the shanty neighborhood. The hair on the back of my neck rose a touch remembering who lived here and what went on. Neighborhoods like this could be brutal. People still looked at the unfamiliar car that drove down the street. If some young guy smiled, you could take odds it wasn't genuine.
The parking lot was littered with signs telling you that the restaurant was not responsible for whatever happened to your car while you were there. Good to know. I found the austere entrance, an unadorned door with a small, isignificant sign saying "entrance."
"By god, boy. . . if ya h'aint got sense to know how to get in the goddamned restaurant. . . ."
Inside, nothing had changed. Nothing. It still smelled of old seafood. There were two cast cement bars with a deep basin for scraping in the oyster shells. There were tables, too, but nobody was sitting at them. I walked in and took a seat in the middle of the second bar. A big fellow came over and asked if I needed a menu.
"Yea."
Another fellow brought me another and told me to move to the end of the bar.
"What can I get you?"
I hadn't looked at the menu yet, but. . ."I'll have a bucket of oysters."
"How do you want them?"
I like them raw, but hepatitis and all. . . "Steamed. Medium, I guess."
I ordered a beer. He brought it and began to set me up.
"They'll be ready in about four minutes," he said.
I told him I came here with my parents when I was a kid but hadn't been back in like forty years.
"I brought my wife here on our first date," he said. He was thin and fit and had the obligatory tattoos on each of his arms.
I'm a good listener, or, perhaps, a good interviewer. I found out where he lived, in another dumpy part of town, with his girlfriend, though they've been together twelve years so he calls her his wife. They have three kids, not his kids. She is a little older and had the kids with another guy. He never had any of his own. But he was born in my own village, went to school there. Odd, I thought, his trajectory in life.
Oysters ready, he put the bucket in the trough and began shucking. Shucking steamed oysters is much easier than shucking raw, so he was filling the bar quickly.
I was eating them like a sissy. A real oyster connoisseur squeezes some lemon on them and sucks them right out of the shell. I scooped up a bit of horse raddish on the oyster and dipped it in cocktail sauce and then butter before putting it on a saltine cracker.
The shucker didn't comment.
"I saw you had butterfly shrimp on the menu. When I was a kid, there was a place out on the trail called Gary's Duck Inn. You'd think they'd be known for their duck, but it was a steak and seafood place. At the time, they were the largest purchasers of shrimp in the country, if you can believe that, and they were famous for their butterfly shrimp."
If you don't know:
Butterfly shrimp is a popular, visually appealing preparation method where the shrimp is split open along the back, deveined, and flattened into a butterfly-like shape while remaining connected, often with the tail left on. This technique increases surface area for better coating adhesion (ideal for breading and frying) and ensures faster, more even cooking.
"When Gary sold the place. . . "
Rather than write it on my own here, I'll paste the history from a local newspaper account.
Gary's Duck Inn ,a popular seafood spot established in 1945, inspired the creation of Red Lobster after investors Bill Darden and Charley Woodsby purchased it in 1963. Recognizing the success of the no-frills, high-volume seafood model, they launched the first Red Lobster in Lakeland, Florida, in 1968.The Inspiration: Gary Starling opened Gary's Duck Inn in 1945 on South Orange Blossom Trail, becoming famous for shrimp and serving celebrities like Dolly Parton.
"Cool, huh?"
"Really? I worked for Red Lobster for twenty years."
"Wow. Did they still serve the butterfly shrimp?"
"They called them something else."
"Well, I'm coming back to get the butterfly shrimp next time."
"You'd better bring someone with you. It's a pretty big platter."
He spread his hands apart as indication.
"How are you doing with the oysters. You still have this many left."
He held up the bucket. There were still a good number of shelled oysters on the bar.
"My eyes were bigger than my stomach," I said.
"I don't want to charge you for the rest of these," he said. "I'll just charge you for two dozen."
And to think I was nervous about coming in. What a guy. And of course, I tipped him 50%.
I'd come out by the Expressway, but I drove home down the old highway past my old neighborhood and the giant Shopping Center that bordered it. It caught me by surprise. It was HUGE, but now it was an eyesore, having been very badly updated, stuccoed, and painted a terrible orange, seeming miles of it. For a long, long stretch, the aesthetics of poverty dominated the landscape, dirt lots and withered or dead shrubs bordering dirty parking lots, people's IQs affected by drugs, inbreeding, and a terrible lack of education.
My people.
It was still early. Back home,I worked on some picture ideas, mere sketches of things I thought about making. Music, drink. . . .
As I've told you before, I spent my life running from that place. I wanted to live in the places I saw in movies and in the glossy magazines. I wanted to fall in love with my own Golden Girl. Some of it had worked out O.K, maybe. But now and then, I need to step over the fence of Leave It to Beaverland and go to Zone 13.
And live to exaggerate the tale. . . to gentle lovers.
































