Sometimes in life, you just have to bunt instead of swinging away.
I went surfing this weekend for the first time in years. Yes, I took surf portraits last year, but never got on a board. This weekend was perfect for me. The ocean was flat, the waves small, about waist high. I am not in paddling shape and would have floundered if the seas had been big. As it was, I was tired but caught every wave I tried which was not too many. I will go once a week, I tell myself, only to surf. I felt good and wholesome afterwards.
We'll see.
do it do it do it.
ReplyDeletesurfers on tv make it look easy. the first date i ever had with the father of my children here on the cape was surfing here off wellfleet -- the water was cold and i was astounded how much upper body strength it took -- my arms were jelly just paddling out nevermind trying to stand (which of course i didn't). when i took my wetsuit off -- i had seaweed tattooed to my skin.
i eventually got my own board and practiced paddling for an entire summer. :)
do it.
it even sounds wholesome....wouldn't it be grand if some photographer shows up and wants to take your picture with your board?
ReplyDeletep.s.
ReplyDeletei love this photo. :-)
L, I knew you would like it. Tomorrow is the first male model, too. As for surfing, yes, I will grow lean and strong. . . but wait. . .
ReplyDeleteR, No, no, I hadn't though of that!